The Ultimate Equestrian Adventure
Touring France’s Loire Valley on horseback is like riding through the pages of history.
By Diane Broady
dbroady@ocalastyle.com
I thought that we must have been traveling back in time as we rode horseback through the densely wooded forests of the Loire Valley in France. I could imagine gazing out of H.G. Wells’ time machine as we came upon the magnificent Chateau de La Verrerie, Chateau of the Stuarts, mirrored in a lake of glass. Our group quickly dismounted from the horses and walked awestruck through the castle entry. We strolled down open hallways adorned with magnificent frescos on the walls -- gallant images of knights on horseback.
Suddenly we were whisked back to the present day as our wonderful guide Patrick shouted: "You must all be ready to meet the Count and Countess Beraud de Vogue for an aperitif and hors d’oeurves in 45 minutes. And you can’t be late!"
With his instructions in mind, my eleven companions and I ran up the long staircases in the castle to find our rooms, unpack, wash off the grime of the all-day horseback ride, and transform into something presentable. We were -- after all -- going to meet French royalty.
As I rushed to avoid being late, my mind drifted to thoughts of how lucky we were. So far, the trip had been nothing short of enchanting -- my companions and I were discovering Europe by horseback, and we knew the Loire Valley would be special. It was an opportunity to see the true French countryside that most tourists cannot visit. The fact that we would also travel on horseback, stay at Renaissance chateaux, and enjoy some of the finest food and wine in the world had to be considered a delightful bonus.
The Loire Valley, our setting for this fairy-tale-come-true, runs along the banks of the Loire River from the south of Paris to the Atlantic Ocean. For hundreds of years, the royalty of France built immense chateaux throughout the valley as evidence of their wealth. These chateaux became the royalty’s country retreats and hosts to some of the finest French vineyards.
And for one week, they would be our homes as well.
Getting Ready
While everyone in my group was ready for an adventure, some were admittedly more experienced riders than others. Even though the trips are designed to escort both the expert and the novice, we were all determined to be up to the challenge. Since we would be in the saddle for up to seven hours a day, we began riding and exercising in a special "fitness" program in anticipation of our trip. Set for July, the weather in France would be perfect: lows in the 50s and highs in the 70s.
Day 1: Arrival
The airplane flight to France was a long one, but all of us experienced an adrenaline rush that lingered long after arriving in Paris where we transferred to a train at the Gare Station. Always a busy hub, it was especially packed today -- it was the day after Bastille Day and everyone was traveling home. Nearly late, we ran to the train, stuffed 30 pieces of luggage inside, and then collapsed in our seats for a two-hour ride.
When we arrived at the Cosne-sur-Loire railroad station, our guide, Patrick Germain, greeted us. As we were soon to learn, Patrick was devoted to making our trip memorable and safe. He had a quiet and almost shy manner, but was radiant in his admiration for his horses, the beautiful French countryside, and the fascinating people he was going to introduce us to along the way. Everyone greeted Patrick with smiles and open arms, as we knew he was about to become our good friend. (And later that week we all learned to anticipate his favorite phrase, "Prepare to trot!" because it meant we were riding off to the next adventure.)
Patrick escorted us to our first hotel, which sat atop a lovely hillside with beautiful immaculate vineyards cascading down each slope. That evening we sampled the famous Sancerre white wine over a dinner of exquisitely prepared rabbit. Patrick joined us to discuss our riding ability so that he could pair us with just the right horse. (After all, we were to travel 140 miles on these horses during the next five days.)
Even though it was Sunday evening, we strolled through the hilly town of Sancerre. We laughed as we ran up steep inclines and entered the courtyard in the town square. It was brimming with flowers that were alive with color and falling in every direction. Sunlight bounced off the beautiful windows, doors and balconies -- unbelievably, it was still daylight at 10pm.
Day 2: Our Trusty Steeds
After a breakfast of steaming French croissants and homemade butter and jams, we went to the stable of a nearby chateau and prepared to meet our horses. There were many breeds represented: from Andalusian to Selle François to Trekaner.
We were all anxious to begin.
As we left on our journey, we felt like we were transported back to the 16th century. We rode through fields and forests and walked down the main streets of little towns where women and children opened windows and waved to us as we advanced through town. We rode through the hilly Champagne Berrichone and Pays Fort areas where wheat fields and vineyards greeted us at every turn. During our lunch break we tied the horses to trees just outside the nearby town and feasted on fresh cheese made that morning, famous French bread, French chocolate, roasted chicken and, of course, famous French wine! That night we stayed at a beautiful French Inn and dined on baked, heavy bread with ham and cheese in a tomato-garlic sauce, sliced pork tenderloin with broiled tomatoes, barley with slivered zucchini, fresh cheeses, and homemade peach cobbler.
Day 3: The Storm
This morning began with steaming croissants, fresh butter and homemade raspberry and peach jams. The group departed about 9am and traveled over beautiful fields of wheat and more vineyards.
But suddenly the scenery changed into a dense forest where ferns grew 3-4 feet tall. Trees towered overhead. The skies clouded over and the winds blew hard. It started to rain and we had to find shelter. Little did we know our group was headed straight for the home of an infamously crazy artist.
Lenard appeared like magic out of one of the most unusual homes I have ever seen. He was shaggy and old, complete with a floppy felt hat and a scraggly beard. But his art was enchanting. Tile and ceramic animals were everywhere: cats, dogs, and chickens were mounted on tiles on the roof or on the sides of the house. The whole place looked magical, especially the area he called the "Outdoor Cathedral," a retreat filled with artistic structures of unusual ceramic designs.
We left when the rain subsided and headed to the beautiful Chateau d’Ivoy in the Sologne region. Dressing elegantly for dinner, our group enjoyed chicken and rice with a white wine sauce, fresh fruit, French bread, homemade cheese, and chocolate mousse for dessert.
The chateau was completely restored. With winding staircases, six beautiful suites, large drawing rooms and dining halls, the home was truly grand. My room was a beautiful suite named the Camelia Room, which had previously hosted Mary Stuart, Lord Drummond, and other Scottish royalty from the past.
Day 4: Traversing the Moat
Today we once again walked, trotted and cantered through the countryside. During the day we had a wine tasting at the famous medieval fortress at La Chapelle d’Angillon, which is surrounded by a moat much like the ones I remember from the pages of fairy tales. That night we rode to an old French hunting lodge, lit a fire, enjoyed fine wine, and feasted on a duck dinner with roasted potatoes, cheese, French bread and homemade apricot tarts.
Day 5: An Enchanted Forest
So far, every day had had its magical moments but, today -- after a long day of riding -- we rode out of the "enchanted" forest, which was covered with ferns nearly ten-feet high, and came upon the Chateau de La Verrerie. It was about 6:30pm and the castle seemed to rise out of the forest, beckoning us to explore its passageways where royalty had walked hundreds of years ago. Once inside, we found the occupants of the chateau readying for our arrival and met our hosts, the kind and noble Count and Countess Beraud de Vogue.
That evening we enjoyed a seven-course meal and dined like (What else?) royalty. We enjoyed salad with puff pastry, chicken in wine sauce, roasted vegetables, and French vanilla ice cream swirled with fresh raspberry sauce for dessert.
Day 6: An Incredible Finale
Our last day ended, appropriately enough, by toasting the trip’s success with Sancerre wine made exclusively of famous Sauvignon grapes. Around a table large enough for 15 people at the vineyard and chateau of Daniel Chotard in Sancerre, we dined on foie gras, cheese, and a grand dinner. We enjoyed veal stuffed with pork, mushrooms in wine sauce, scalloped potatoes and fresh fruit for dessert.
None of us could believe our trip was coming to a close. As we were drawn out of the "real" world into this special place of history and nature, our group realized that what made the week a true, "life" experience was the special bond we formed with our new friends as we traveled together.
But we discovered other, unexpected friends during our stay. The horses were a complete delight and we realized that we had also bonded with our equine companions. During the entire week, we were responsible for their care -- and they were responsible for ours. We snuck sugar cubes from the restaurants and were greeted with tender "nickers" upon our return. They pawed the ground when we marched up with heavy feed trays after a long day’s journey. They responded with contentment to the constant grooming and care we provided.
Upon returning to the United States, the group as a whole felt more at peace than it had in a long time. Our perspective had certainly changed as our thoughts turned globally to all that there is "out there" to discover. We had found a delightful way to combine our love for horses with our love for adventure, and the members of the group discovered that they actually could ride 140 miles in one week and still feel great. Our friendship within the "Crazy Group of 12 from Florida" has never been stronger.
My new friends and I are already planning our next adventure. Will it be Italy, Costa Rica, Portugal or a trip to another area of France?
I realize now that the possibilities are endless.
Diane Broady is an equine enthusiast who loves her horses and the adventure of travel, as well as discovering new ways to enjoy them both. She resides in Ocala and owns a national advertising and marketing agency, Partnership Marketing, Inc.
ADVENTURE AWAITS
Kinnitty Castle Trail Ride, Ireland. A four-star castle stay with interesting rides.
Rob Roy’s Legacy: The Rob Roy Trail, Scotland. Travel through Blackmount Estate which is the family home of the late Ian Fleming, creator of James Bond. View scenery that was featured in films such as Rob Roy, Highlander and Braveheart.
Atlantic Coast Ride, Portugal. Ride the rugged Atlantic coast via horse, boat and/or foot from a base of Papa Leguas farm, about 120 miles south of Lisbon. The views are spectacular.
Agean Sea Trail Ride, Greece. This inn-to-inn trail ride traverses beaches, roads and old trails through beautiful countryside. A tour of Athens can also be arranged.
Tuscany Trail Ride, Italy. See some of Italy’s most beautiful cities. This trip combines great food, excellent wine, famous Italian art and visits to famous medieval cities.
Cross County International, Corp. offers many other overseas trips. For more information, call 800-828-8768 or e-mail xcintl@aol.com
Story courtesy of Ocala Style magazine. Reprinted from February 2002 issue.
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